Features

Super-insulated building envelope

Cost effective modular construction

Southern Exposure

  • Passive winter heat gain through high performance South facing windows
  • Ideal roof orientation for solar hot water and photovoltaic panels
  • Overhangs designed to reduce solar heat gain in summer

Reduced electrical loads

Other Energy Efficient Features

Added "Green" Features

Acadia All Climate Heat Pump?

Do you know anyone who has one of these All Climate Heat Pumps? http://www.gotohallowell.com/

We are currently considering it as a less expensive alternative to a ground source heat pump.

Thanks,

Ed

Mr. Green Dreams

Acadia is Out

We have pretty much ruled out the Acadia unit. One of the primary easons is their complete lack of responsiveness. If they can't call me back, or reply to my emails, prior to selling me something, the chances of getting a return call after the sale is grim. They are out.

Mr. Green Dreams

Could Daikin be in?

Among air-coupled heat pump vendors Daikin has a very good reputatain (low starting current, very high-efficiency compressor & fan motors, etc.) They're a Japanese company, but their sales have taken off in Europe recently. IIRC they sell a lot of split heating/cooling residential-sized units in the southern US as well. I'm not sure what their lowest heating design-temperature is, but I'm sure it's below 10F, may be below 0F if they're selling in Europe, which is probably adequate for super-insulated house in southern New England (but probably not for northern VT.) It may be worth looking them up.

dana

Heat Pumps

Actually... We've discovered the house loads will be so small that a high efficiency ground source heat pump can be had for LESS than the cost of a conventional heat and A/C system.  The electric baseboards are out.We are likely looking at a 3 ton Climate Master Tranquility 27.There is a lot going on behind the scenes these days.  More information to come.Ed Mr. Green Dreams

Not too surprised...

I was surprised that you were looking at air-coupled heat pumps at all due to cold-weather inefficiency, so it's no surprise that a small ground coupled system is affordable (with much higher operational efficiency.) I'm assuming this would have a trenched, not drilled ground loop(?), since drilling costs tend to be a significant cost adder on these systems when it has to be a vertical loop.

I'll be curious to read the details (backchannel or on the blog), since that's the approach I've suggested to some of my relatives (currently heating a non-superinsulated 1500' cape with electric baseboards.) My back-of-napkin analysis tells me they'd need about a 2.5-3 ton unit after they fixed some of the more eggregious (read "more cost effective") infiltration & insulation issues with their house. (And with up to $15K of very low interest MA state loan available for the retrofit it could be an immediate cash-positive move for them.)

dana

Some of the GSHP Details

The Acadia unit is air coupled, but
according to their literature achieves high efficiency down to very low ambient
temperatures using a "booster" compressor (and perhaps other
proprietary parts or processes). It is my personal opinion that they may
actually have something here, but until a major brand puts their label on the
units, or Hallowell's customer service improves drastically, I'd think twice about
looking at them.

There is no question about it; ground source heat pumps are more expensive than
conventional heating and cooling equipment. The MOST economical thing to
do is to reduce loads as much as possible first. In the case of this
house we have reduced our loads enough to (comfortably) reduce our heating and
A/C equipment by 50%. This not only makes the equipment 50% smaller, but
also reduces the ground connection by 50% (this saves a LOT
of money).

There are a number of ways to couple a heat pump to the ground: horizontal
trenching, vertical boreholes, water loops, standing column wells, and perhaps
others. Each has pros and cons and can drastically affect the cost of the
system. In our case, we are choosing to go with a standing column
well. Why?

A 400' well was installed prior to our purchase of the property. We
have some concerns that the 5 gallons per minute refresh rate is a little low
for our 5 person family and had plans to deepen it regardless (to try to bring
up the refill rate). The general rule of thumb (for the local geology) is
~150 feet of well depth per ton of heat pump capacity. If we deepen the
existing well another 150 feet, we will have more than enough capacity to heat
and cool our house as well as supply us with domestic water.

Well drilling in this area is ~$8-$10 per foot (we hit granite at 30 feet).
Doing some quick math, that will cost us about $1500 (plus some setup
fees). If I had to drill the entire depth, it would cost me $5,500 plus
setup. For the sake of comparison, if we
needed a system that was twice the size (conventional construction), we'd need
an $11,000 well AND spend twice as much on the inside equipment.

I have not had vertical boreholes estimated, but it will require deeper
drilling (the reasons are too technical for this page). Horizontal trenching is difficult in our rocky
soil and can get expensive quickly. In
short, our most economical option of ground coupling is the standing column
well. Standing columns tend to be more efficient
than closed loop systems, but they tend to be less advantageous for homes that
do not us their well for domestic purposes.

The primary cons of standing column wells are: potential mineral fouling of
the heat pump, and the potential for wasting water (if not designed properly).

The moral of the story… GSHP costs add up quickly. My suggestion is to
spend the money on insulation first. Conservation
costs less in both the short and long term.

Ed

Mr. Green Dreams

CFL, maybe try these new LED bulbs instead

I bought a house in 02 that had a lot of recessed cans. I also built on a large extension for an office, in which I also installed cans.

The old cans, as well as the new, had dimmers. I wanted good lite quality, dimmable, CFLs. I found them. The brand is TCP. They are the top shelf of CFLs. Pricey when compared to Home Depot or Wal Mart cheapies, but you totally get what you pay for. Here are the ones I used:

http://www.goodmart.com/products/147845.htm

CRI is very high. Warm-up time is imperceptible, and most importantly, I've only had to replace 1 in the past 4 years. That's out of 20+.

BUT... I just discovered these:

http://www.llfinc.com/index.aspx

I met with a rep from my electric company who handles their rebate programs. He told me about these and that he just help a local Friendly's restaurant do all their lighting with these. He said the lite quality is imperceptible from incandescent. Pricey: $100 per fixture. But since they actually do last for 15 years, worth it for a new build.

LED bulbs & fixtures

High CRI "white" LEDs aren't really as efficient as CFLs (yet)- efficiency claims are exaggerated (they don't really work out when you dig into the fine print), and they're at best half the efficiency of linear fluorescents. They still have a few technical issues to work out. LED fixures all come with heavy aluminum heat-sinking built-in, for good reason- they lose output and shift color rapidly with temperature. Specifications are usually for operation at 25C degrees, but they don't typically run that cold. Installation has to provide sufficient convective (or forced draft) cooling to keep them running near their specifications, and their longevity can be compromised if allowed to run hot.

Properly installed, you'll NEVER have to replace 'em, but it's still more cost efficient to use high CRI linear fluorescents in dimmable fixutures to do the heavy-lifting of ambient lighting, even if you end up having to swap out tubes once a decade or more. Use the LEDs for accent lighing (spots for illuminating art, for instance.)

dana

Thanks for LEDding me off the Hook

I have been personally struggling with purchasing LED "bulbs." The feedback is good to hear. Does anyone have personal experience with the new LLF LEDs? http://www.llfinc.com/ At $100 each (with discount) they are at the extreme limit of the - let's just test them range. We plan to have 20 can lights. That's $2,000 for light-bulbs. Ouch!

Thanks,

Ed

Mr. Green Dreams

They're front page "just introduced" LR6

They're front page "just introduced" LR6 delivers a whopping 650 lumens for 12 watts. Do the math- 54 lumens/W is lower performance than a $2 eleven watt twisty-bulb CFL, or half the light per watt of a 14W T5 linear tube. On their Spotlight page they talk up a 113lm/W 5.8W par 38: http://www.llfinc.com/PressRelease.aspx?ID=22

If true (and remains true over temperature & time) that's an impressive step up from what's for sale today, but they don't give an MSRP or a delivery date.

LEDs will get there some day, but methinks it more affordable to wait for now. The price has to be cut in half and the performance has to double for LEDs to become competitive as general illumination. For ambient lighting the price AND efficiency performance sweet spot this year (and likely next) is still high-end linear fluorescents in electronic-ballasted fixtures. At their current limp performance range LEDs are hard to rationalize except as accent lighting where you want something with crisper edges and (very slightly) better color rendering than you can get with an equivalent CFL, or for places where it's near-impossible to change the light after it's been installed.

dana